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In January 1864 Sir Samuel and Lady Florence
Baker travelled from Fort Patiko southwards towards Gulu and the
Karuma Falls on their arduous journey in their search for Lake
Albert, one of the main sources of the river Nile. Samuel Baker
wrote “There was no wood for fires, neither dung of animals;
thus without fuel we went supperless to bed. Although the sun
was painfully hot during the day, the nights were so cold that
we could hardly sleep. For two days we marched through high dry
grass, (about ten feet). On the following day our guide lost the
track; a large herd of elephants had obscured it by trampling
hundreds of paths in all directions. I led the way on foot from
the hour we left Patiko as the men had more faith in my steering
by the compass than they had in the local guide.” There
is no record in Samuel Baker’s writing of a place called
Gulu but we know from the route that he recorded so carefully
that he must have passed very close by where you now stand.
Later, in March 1872, Samuel described the barbaric
behaviour of the slavers in this area, who not only were merciless
in treatment of those they captured, but also destroyed the vast
herds of cattle on which people lived. “The treacherous
ruffian gave an order to his brigands at sunset. They were to
be under arms an hour before daybreak on the following morning,
to set fire to the adjacent villages of their generous hosts,
and to capture their large herds of cattle, together with their
women and children…… It must be remembered that at
least a thousand, and sometimes double that number of slaves,
are prisoners in each station along the Nile. All these must be
fed; not only oxen, but all the breeding cows and young calves
are killed without the slightest reflection. No country can support
such wilful waste; thus after many years of ravage, this beautiful
province has become almost barren of cattle.”
As they overcame the slavers, Sir Samuel and
Lady Florence Baker freed the slaves, grew crops and protected
the cattle but lasting damage had been done by this evil trade
in human beings. It was a terrible time which sadly has been repeated
by evil people again and again in this beautiful land.
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