In May 1863 Sir Samuel and Lady Florence climbed
up from the Latooka plain to the high ground of Obbo. The Obbo
chief Katchiba gave them a great welcome commencing with a dance.
Sir Samuel writes “About a hundred men formed a circle;
each man held in his left hand a small cup-shaped drum, formed
of hollowed wood, one end only being perforated, and this was
covered with the skin of the elephant's ear, tightly stretched.
In the centre of the circle was the chief dancer, who wore,
suspended from his shoulders, an immense drum, also covered
with the elephant's ear. The dance commenced by all singing
remarkably well a wild but agreeable tune in chorus, the big
drum directing the time, and the whole of the little drums striking
at certain periods with such admirable precision, that the effect
was that of a single instrument. The dancing was most vigorous,
and far superior to anything that I had seen.” During
their long stay in the Obbo region, Chief Katchiba became a
firm friend of the Bakers. Sir Samuel writes:
“Now, Chief Katchiba was not a good walker, and his usual
way of travelling was upon the back of a very strong subject,
precisely as children are wont to ride "pic-a-back."
He generally had two or three spare men, who alternately acted
as guides and ponies, while one of his wives invariably accompanied
him, bearing a large jar of beer, with which it was said that
the old chief refreshed himself so copiously during the journey,
that it sometimes became necessary for two men to carry him
instead of one!”
Sir Samuel so trusted the wise old chief that he left Lady
Baker in his care to go off on hunting expeditions . Returning
“I found my wife looking remarkably well, and regularly
installed at home. Several fat sheep were tied by the legs to
pegs in front of the hut; a number of fowls were pecking around
the entrance, and my wife awaited me on the threshold with a
large pumpkin shell containing about a gallon of local beer.”
Sir Samuel was delighted, especially after a journey of 30 miles
in the boiling sun. The rains and the flooded rivers had prevented
their progress south but by early January it was reported that
the river Assua was passable and so they set off again.